Pattern-plate for folding and marking garment-sections.



PATENTED JUNE 16, 1903.

P. J. MENAHANP PATTERN PLATE FOR FOLDING AND MARKING GARMENT SECTIONSAPPLICATION FILED DBO. 3, 1900. RENEWED MAY 25, 1903.

no MODEL.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.'

IN VENTOH )XMNW A TTOHNEYS No. 731,413.v

PATENTED JUNE 16, 1903.

P. J. MENAHAN. PATTERN PLATE FOR FOLDING AND MARKING GARMENT SECTIONS.

APPLICATION FILED DEO. 3, 1900. RENEWED MAY 25, 1903.

- 2 SHEETS-SHEET 2- no MODEL.

w/msssss UNITED Tamas Patented June16, 1903.

L ATENT nnrcn.

PATTERN-PLATE FOR FOLDING AND MARKING GARMENT-SECTIONS.

SBEGlFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 731,413, dated June 16,1903. Application filed December 3, 1900. Renewed May 25,1903. SerialNo. 158,646. (No model.)

Folding and Marking Garment-Sections; and

I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exactdescription thereof as applied to the manufacture of corsets.

The invention treats two pieces at a time and prepares them rapidly andvery perfectly without requiring highly-skilled labor. The

apparatus required'is relatively inexpensive and very simple anddurable. The treatment is applicable to the manufacture of variousgarments where any considerable number are to be produced alike.

I will first describe the invention as applied to the preparation of onepair of pieces for a pair of corsets.

In the manufacture of corsets there are separately-made triangularpieces of muslin or other fabric, technically termed gores, applied ineach side. These gores properly treated at their edges are set innarrower V-shaped notches in the main body of the corset,secured bytwoparallel lines of stitches near each edge, and increase the size of thegarment at those points. For each gore there is a counterpart of thesame size and a reversely-corresponding form to apply in the oppositehalf of the corset. Blanks for gores of the proper outline and so muchlarger than the completed gores as will allow about the ordinary marginfor the infold or seam fold are previously cut from the fabric. Thiscutting is an old and wellknown step. It may be effected by any ordinaryor suitable means, as extending the material smoothly in many layerssayforty-eightand cutting through the whole at one operation bya knifemoved by hand around a templet of the required form and size. When verymany are required, these blanks may be produced by forcibly depressing acutting-die of the required size and form. The blanks for several goresare afterward treated in pairs by holding, marking, and folding by theaid of my apparatus in the manner fully described below. I shall referto the broad end of the gore as the front during this treatment.

line 4 a in Fig. 1.

The following is a description of what I consider the best means ofcarrying outthe invention.

The accompanying drawings form a part of this specification.

Figure 1 is'a plan view of the lower plate and block. The stronglinesindicate the outline of the bottom or main plate, the heavy dottedlines within two of its edges indicate the outline of the block on whichit is carried, and light dotted lines outside of the figure indicate theedges of the blanks as cut and applied on the plate before beingtreated. Fig. 2 is a corresponding view of the intermediate plate. Fig.3 is a corresponding view of the top plate. Fig. 4: is a transversesection through the block and main plate on the Fig. 5 is acorresponding section showing the pair of blanks in positiontobetreated. Fig.6isacorrespondingsection with the second plate, theintermediate plate, applied and held in position for marking by its aidthe inner-seam line on both the blanks. Fig. 7 is a correspondingsection with the third plate, the top plate, applied. Fig. 8 is acorresponding section with the overhanging edges of the blank deflectedapart or partially folded after they have been wetted. Fig. 9 is acorresponding section showing the whole after the infolds have beenproperly folded, the upper one folded upward and the lower one foldeddownward, the corresponding plate being used as a former to determinethe exact places of the folded lines. Fig. 10 is a corresponding sectionshowing the same after the upper or top plate has been drawn forward andlifted Off. Fig. 11 is a corresponding section showing the pair of goresafter the treatment has been completed, but before they are separatedfrom each other. Figs. 12 and 13 are corresponding sections showing thecompletely-prepared gores separated and ready to be applied in'thecorset. Fig. 14 is a face view of a main plate adapted for treatingthose front portions of the main body of the corset sometimes termed theclasp-pieces or bust-pieces. Fig. 15 is a face view with a pair ofblanks and the corresponding top plate applied. Fig. 16 is across-section on the line 3 3 in Fig. 14.. Fig. 17 is a face view of amain plate adapted for treating the larger portions of the main body,

usually termed the back-pieces. Fig. 18 is a face View with a pair ofblanks and a top plate applied. Fig. 19 is a cross-section on the line 66 in Fig. 17.

Similar letters of reference indicate like parts in all the figureswhere they appear.

The thickness of the several plates is exaggerated to show theconstruction and effect plainly.

A is the main plate of metal, having the form and size of a completedgore.

A represents pins, shown as permanently set in the plate A in erectpositions near each end.

A is a block of wood or other suitable material, smaller than the plateA, upon which the plateAis firmly and permanently secured.

B is an intermediate plate of metal having the form of the plate A, butsmaller. It is provided with close-fitting holes I), which match on twoof the pins A and maintain it in the true position laterally while inuse.

0 is a top plate of metal coinciding in form and dimensions with theplate Aand adapted to be applied thereon, on which is preferably riveteda handle 0, by which it may be conveniently manipulated. It is providedwith three slots 0, extending in parallel directions, two closed and oneopen.

The several pieces of fabric cut to constitute the proper blanks aremarked M M. Each is of such size and form as to produce the requiredfinished gore corresponding to the plates A and C with sufficientmargins M along the edges to fold and form the seams by which thiscomplete piece shall be joined to the other parts of the corset.

To operate the invention, the plates O and B are temporarily removed, apair of blanks M M in the extended condition placed on the main plate A,with the pins A extendingup through the fabrics, so as to hold the twopieces of fabric, reliably against lateral displacement, and theintermediate plate Bis applied with its holes I) matched on two of thepins A. Marks are next made by any suit-able implement, as the edge of adull knife pressed upon the pair of fabrics M and moved along the twoedges B B of the plate B successively. This treatment produces indentedlines m along those edges on both the blanks, which indicate the properlines which the first row of stitching will finally follow. Next the topplate 0 is applied, receiving the several pins A, each so held that thepins are each in the front end of its corresponding slot 0. Next theprojecting edges of the blanks M are wetted by a sponge or otherwise andare separated, the lower one folded downward under the main plate A andthe upper one folded upward upon the upper face of the plate 0. Theblock A which supports the plate A, is sufficiently smaller to allow themargin for the seam to be thus folded smoothly under. It is shown as ofthe same form; but this is not important, as it per- Now forms nofunction in directly shaping.

corset.

the preparation of this pair of gores is com pleted; but their removalrequires some care. The seam-margin of the upper blank being foldedinward over the adjacent portion of the upper plate 0 would be disturbedby a direct lifting movement of such plate. This is not a seriousdifficulty but it is well to avoid it. The facts that the parts beingprepared are tapering gores and that the apertures c are slots insteadof round holes become important by making it practicable to avoiddisturbingthe folds of the upper blank. The plate 0, operated by theattendant by the aid of its handle 0, is first drawn forward to theextent permitted by the slots 0. After this movement is made the way isclear, and it can then be directly lifted and removed. The plate B isnext removed and both blanks M M M M are lifted off together and laid onthe bench or on the pile of previously-prepared gores, taking care whenthere is much piling of these completely-formed gores that the foldedseam-margins M be not flattened out,but,on the contrary,be keptfolded,so that they shall be held folded down still flatter as theweight of succeeding instalments is applied above. I have determined byexperiments that itis easy to mark the line for the parallel seam on thetwo blanks in the manner described, as they are held by my plates A andB, and that the marking shall not only be clearly shown on the uppermostof the pair of gores sufficiently to guide the needlewoman in putting inthe line of stitches to secure that in place on its proper half of thecorset, but the mark will also be shown with nearly equal distinctnesson the corresponding blank which lies below and which being acounterpart of the upper is properly shaped and marked to serve in acorresponding reversed position on the opposite half of the Thus thefolding and the marking properly fit each of the two gores MM to serveon their respective sides.

The sewing may be as usual. The first line of stitches applied along themark m secures the gore to the body of the corset, (not shown,) leavingthe folded seam-margin M nearly or quite untouched. The second line ofstitches is applied through the folded part M, as well as through thebody M, all as has long been practiced.

My invention gives great perfection with little labor and may be workedby relatively unskilled operators.

Modifications may be made without departing from the principle orsacrificing the advantages of the invention.

When a fabric is used having a right and a Wrong side, as is the casewith satins and with many other kinds of goods, the layers of fabricmust be reversely arranged. Such piling, one with its right face upwardand the next with its right face downward, may be done either inarranging the goods before the blanks are cut or after they are cut andwhen they are being applied on the main plate A.

I can adapt the invention to the production of other pieces and forother garments than corsets. For treating a pair of gores, as in Figs. 1to 13, inclusive, instead of the three pins A, I can make two suffice,or I can use a greater number than three. Only one at each end can beallowed in treating the narrow gores, which extend up and down obliquelynear the bottom of the front of each side of the corset.

In Figs. 1. to 13 two edges are treated and one, the front edge, is leftuntouched. There may be any form of the support along the edge or edgesnot to be treated. The edge of the support may be flush with the edge ofthe main plate or may extend out beyond it. The edge or edges to befolded may be long aper: tures within or partially within the border ofthe piece, taking care to provide suitable plates and also suitablesupports to allow space for folding under along such interior lines.

Figs. 14, 15, and 16 show a portion of my invention applied for treatingblanks for bustpieces of corsets. This work requires no intermediateplate. G is the main plate, G the pins, and G2 the support. The platemay, as in the other forms, be sheet-iron about No. 30, and the supportmay be pine lumber sufficiently smaller along the proper edges to allowthe lower blank to be folded downward. They may, as in the other form,be secured together by nails, having their heads sunk flush. There arethree seam-margins or infolds P of the properly-shaped blanks which areto be treated. The blanks are set in pairs properly matched on the mainplate G, held laterally by the pins G, covered by the top plate H, whichreceives the pins G in close-fitting holes h, and the'projecting marginsP, each of the proper breadth to form the required infold,are wetted andare folded, the lowermost downward and theuppermost upward. Whencompleted, the pair of bustpieces are liberated in the obvious mannerafter lifting off the top plate. In the preparation of these piecesthere is not so much advantage in moving the top plate before lifting itas in the regularly-tapered gores first described; but in thismodification the holes it may, if preferred, be elongated to accommodateany direct bodily movement of the top plate or any torsional movement orthe two movements combined, which may be found desirable.

Figs. l7, l8, and 19 show a portion of my invention applied for treatingblanks for what are termed the back pieces of corsets. This constructiondoes not require any intermediate plate. .I is the main plate, J thepins, and J the block or support. K is the top plate, It the holes whichreceive the pins J, and lck are closed slots. There are in thisconstruction of the apparatus four edges J 3 and K of the plates J andK, respectively, along which the blanks T are to be folded.

'form of the apparatus.

The blanks extend each beyond these edges of the plates on the sameprinciple as in the other formsjust enoughto afford material for properinfolds. These edges T are all along interior lines, two being along thetwo edges of a deep narrow notch or open slitj and the other two alongthe two sides of another nearly-similar deep notch j,both notchesextending upward from the lower edge of the plates. The blanksTT are, asbefore,treated in pairs, the lower blank having its four seam-margins orinfolds T folded downward and the upper blank having its fourcorresponding seam-margins folded upward. Another feature of importanceis introduced in this modification. A tapering plait T is to extend upfrom one of the deep notches j to the top of the back piece. These deepnotches and this plait have long been known and approved. My inventionprovides for making them with little labor and great perfection. I settwo of the pins J near together near the lower end and two wider apartnear the upper end of the path along which the plait is to extend. Thesepins serve the double f unction of holding the blanks laterally and alsoindicating by the holes 15 t t 15 which they produce, the edges of theportion which is to form the plait. I also employ another mode ofindicating the margins of such plaits. This is done by providing meansfor easily and correctly tracing two marks on the blanks T T along thelines of each fold for this plait in the same manner as the line for oneof the seams is marked in the previously-described While the top plate Jis in position on the blank I not only Wet and fold the overhangingedges for the several infolds T, but also press on the pair of blanksalong the slots k by means of a dull knife or analogous marker drawnalong each slot, and thus mark on each blank. After I have lifted off.the top plate K and the pair of completed back pieces T T, with theirholes and marks, the folding along the lines required to form the propertapering plait T is made by any convenient means, as simply operatingwith the fingers, audit is easy by the aid of these holes and marks toeffect this in exactly the right position.

In treating all forms of pieces the main plate instead of having ahard-metal surface may be faced on the upper side with a soft material,as blotting-paper or velvet, or both. Such would allow the dull knife orother marking-tool, by sinking somewhat into the soft material, to moredistinctly mark: both fabrics. I can use hard material and slightlygroove along the lines to be marked. I have succeeded well with a hardplane surface, the marking by moderate pressure with a hardmetal toolbeing sufficiently visible after the goods have been allowed to lieseveral days. It is not common to have a delay in the treatment of morethan a few minutes, thus effecting the sewing while the folding is ICCfresh and while the edges are still damp and the remainder of the pieceretains the greater stiffness due to its dry condition.

Some of the advantages due to certain features of the invention may beseparately en umerated, as follows: First, by reason of the fact thatthe lower plate A has the form and dimensions to aid the operator toplace a pair of previously-shaped blanks of fabric thereon with acoinciding edge of each overhanging and of the combination therewith ofthe middle plate B, having its edge held just sulficiently within theedge of the bottom plate to allow the line of stitches to be located onthe fabrics by its aid, and of the top plate 0, having its edgecoinciding with that of the bottom plate A, and of the pins J in thebottom plate extending upward through the blanks and also throughapertures in the plates, so as to engage both the plates and the pair ofblanks of fabric and hold them against relative displacement laterally,I am able to correctly and smoothly fold the protruding edges of thefabrics one downward under the lower plate and the other upward over theupper plate and also to mark the position of the seam on each blankwithout requiring labor or skill; second, by reason of the fact that inaddition to the above-recited qualities the top plate has slots in whichthe pins are received arranged to give liberty to move the top platehorizontally forward before it is lifted I am able to partially withdrawthe top plate, and thereby present only a narrower portion thereof to belifted from the fabric, and thus to better preserve and make permanentthe folded condition of the upper blank of fabric.

I do not in this patent claim the apparatus for locating the-folds forproducing the plaits nor the method of operating, such being made thesubjects of separate applications for patcut, as follows: one filedDecember 10, 1900, patent issued April 23, 1901, No. 672,487, and

another filed December 10, 1900, Serial No. 39,291, allowed July 18,1902.

I claim as my invention 1. As an apparatus for folding and markingportions of garments, a bottom plate having a finished edge and a clearspace below, in combination With a removable middle plate to aid inmarking the location of the seam and also with a removable top plate,and means for holding such plates and a pair of blanks of fabric againstrelative displacement laterally, all arranged to serve substantially asherein specified.

2. As an apparatus for folding and marking portions of garments a platehaving the form and dimensions to shape an edge of the finished piece,adapted to support a fabric and carried on a support A which provides aclear space under an edge portion of the plate to allow the infoldportion of the blank to be folded downward and having pins set in suchplates, in combination with a smaller plate having apertures arranged toreceive said pins so as to resist displacement either of the fabric orof the plate and to allow the blank to be marked along the edge of thelatter, and with a removable top plate having the form of the bottomplate and apertures 0 arranged to receive said pins and allow the infoldof the upper blank to be folded upward along such edge, said aperturesin such top plate 0 being elongated to allow the plate to be heldreliably against lateral displacement while in use and to be shiftedlongitudinally before removing, all substantially as herein specified.

In testimony that I claim the invention above set forth I affix mysignature in presence of two witnesses.

PATRICK J. MENAHAN.

Witnesses:

J. B. CLAUTICE, M. F. BOYLE.

